March 16 -- Day of Rest

Had the luxury of sleeping in today since we had no activities scheduled.  Around 9:30 I found my way down the esplanade for my morning flat black and muffin.  Strolled around town and down to the beach and walked the pier and watched the ocean.  What we look out upon is the Coral Sea.  Today is has been windy and the Coral Sea has a fair amount of chop going.

Watched a guy fishing on the pier for a bit.  He'd caught a small shark -- 24" perhaps -- that was going to be on his barbi tonight.  Seeing the shark was a reminder that swimming is risky business here because of sharks but also because of the box jellyfish (stingers) and crocodiles.  It's a minor risk but the warning signs are quite explicit about the risk by not only saying there is a risk but also having extensive first aid instructions posted on the lifeguard station.  The risk is mitigated (and the tourists lured into the water) by netting off a large area (perhaps 50 yards square) to keep the undesirable wildlife separated from all the tender tourist bait.  Jay went in for a swim.  I didn't choosing instead to save my strength for our snorkeling trip on the reef Saturday.

I feel very isolated here.  For all I know there could be thousands of people tucked away in these 4-star places.  But the streets, shops, and restaurants are nearly empty probably because it's been mid-week but more likely because it's not high-season.  In high-season, I suspect this place is a very busy destination location.

But strangely and sadly, it doesn't feel like Australia.  Palm cove could be any ocean-facing resort community in the tropics -- Kauai, Mexico, Naples (Fla.), or Puerto Rico.  Just change the signage and replace the Aboriginal art store with (you pick it) native art store and switch out the tee shirt stock and the beer selection and you're no longer in Australia.  To add to the isolation, the only people you see are the other tourists who may be from Australia but are as likely to be from anywhere in the world.  The only locals are running the stores and restaurants and I'll bet not a one can be found in Palm cove after closing hours.  Don't get me wrong.  Palm Cove is a lovely tropical retreat that is probably a favorite of may Australians and internationals, but it lacks a personality that is uniquely Australian.  Now maybe if I saw a crocodile sliding across the lawn or a stinger (other than a drink in the bar) I'd feel differently.

All this just reinforces how wonderful the time spent in Sydney, Melbourne and the GOR were.  I'm counting on our trip to the Great Barrier Reef tomorrow to make this time in Palm Cove less disappointing and be a terrific final Australian experience before we head home.  Other than that, I have no expectations.